If you're looking to install a UHF in your 4WD, one of the biggest questions you'll probably have is where to mount the handpiece. Traditionally, this has meant drilling the supplied bracket straight into the dashboard or centre console, but that's no longer the only option. Over the past ten years as an auto electrician, I've installed at a guess, 300+ UHF radios across everything from touring 4WDs and highway trucks, to mining and civil equipment. It's probably more, but I don't exactly keep records of this stuff for that long! But, over time it's become obvious to me that vehicles just aren't as simple as they once were.
Behind many dashboard panels you'll now find airbags, electronic control units (ECUs), heater & air conditioning ducting, wiring looms and various other control modules. And, more customers than ever want to preserve resale value of their vehicle by avoiding unnecessary modifications to the interior. Because of this, my approach has changed significantly. While there are still situations where a screwed bracket is appropriate, many of the installations I complete today use no-drill mounting methods that achieve a tidy finish and reduce the risk of damaging expensive interior components.
Can You Install a UHF Without Drilling Into the Dash?
For many modern 4WDs, it's often my preferred approach. That doesn't mean every vehicle should be treated the same, but with some planning it's usually possible to achieve a secure, ergonomic installation without permanently modifying the dashboard. Like every installation, though, the mounting method should never come before safety.
Why I Prefer Not Drilling
The biggest reason isn't appearance, it's what you can't see. Before drilling into any panel, you need to know exactly what's behind it. Modern dashboards often contain:
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Airbag components
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Wiring harnesses
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Electronic control units
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Heater and air conditioning ducting
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Structural dash supports
I've also found that many newer vehicles use large one-piece dash pads. If one section becomes damaged, you're often replacing far more than a small trim panel, turning a simple mistake into an expensive repair. The second reason is resale. One of the most common requests I hear from customers is, "Can we avoid drilling into the dash?"... Whether it's a new LandCruiser, Ranger or Prado, many owners want to keep their vehicle as original as possible. If I can achieve the same functionality without permanent modifications, that's usually the direction I'll recommend.
Choosing the Right Location
When I first sit in a vehicle, I'm not looking for somewhere that simply fits the handpiece. My priorities are always the same. Safety comes first, function comes second, visual appearance comes third. The handpiece should be easy for the driver to reach without stretching, shouldn't interfere with normal driving controls and must never obstruct airbag deployment or other safety systems.
A location that looks good in the workshop isn't necessarily the best location once you're driving rough tracks or trying to operate the radio while negotiating technical terrain. One product I particularly like for off-road driving is the GME XRS-BT1 steering wheel transmit button. It allows you to operate compatible radios without removing your hands from the steering wheel during more technical driving situations, making communication both easier and safer.
My Preferred No-Drill Mounting Methods
Over the years I've settled on a few different approaches depending on the vehicle. The simplest solution is often the best. Many UHF manufacturers supply quality 3M double-sided tape with the microphone bracket, and I've found that when the surface is prepared properly, it performs remarkably well. If no tape is supplied, I'll generally use genuine 3M automotive tape instead. The biggest mistake people make isn't the tape itself, it's the preparation. Like painting!
I'll normally clean the mounting area with an interior cleaner followed by an alcohol wipe using a fresh paper towel. Before using any cleaning product, I always test it on an inconspicuous area to make sure it won't stain, discolour or damage the trim. Surface preparation makes all the difference. For example, these GME Magnetic Microphone Brackets offer a strong magnetic mount and included 3M™ VHB™ adhesive backing.
A Hidden Magnetic Mount I've Been Experimenting With
One solution I've been particularly happy with recently uses an RFI magnetic microphone base. The magnetic base is normally designed to be mounted using screws, but instead I've been mounting it behind a factory switch blank inside the dashboard. The supplied metal plate is attached to the rear of the microphone clip, allowing the handpiece to magnetise securely through the switch blank itself. I also add a thin layer of "furniture felt" between the metal plate and the trim to eliminate any chance of scratching the panel over time.
When paired with a UHF handpiece pass-through blank, this setup becomes even cleaner. Because the handpiece plugs into the dash rather than directly into the radio body, it can simply be unplugged and stored in the glovebox or centre console when it's not needed. The result is a much more factory-looking installation. Instead of leaving an empty microphone bracket permanently visible on the dashboard, the mounting system remains completely hidden behind the switch blank, leaving very little evidence that a UHF has even been installed.
An Example
One installation that stands out was a 200 Series LandCruiser. The owner wanted to keep the vehicle as original as possible, both to protect its resale value and because they were understandably concerned about drilling into panels with important components hidden behind them.
Using the supplied 3M mounting tape, I mounted the microphone bracket on the passenger side of the dashboard where it remained easily accessible without interfering with the driver. Several months later the customer returned after a camping trip, for additional work, and ne of the first things I checked was the microphone mount.
Despite plenty of touring and off-road use, the adhesive hadn't moved at all. It's a good reminder that quality tape, applied correctly, is often more than capable of handling real-world conditions.
Sometimes You Learn From Your Own Installs
When I upgraded the UHF in my own LandCruiser, I just reused the original microphone location. The previous radio had its display built into the main unit, so mounting the microphone in that position made perfect sense. The newer controller-style radio, however, had the display built into the handpiece.
While the installation looked neat, the viewing angle wasn't ideal and only one person could comfortably see the screen depending on which side it was mounted. It's something I still plan to change. But ya know, the plumbers taps always leak, right...
I will eventually be relocating the microphone to a more central position behind the dash where it's easier to see, easier to reach and better suited to the design of modern controller-style radios. It's a good example of how newer UHF designs and technology sometimes require us to rethink installation methods that worked perfectly previously.
Cable Routing Matters Just As Much
A professional installation is usually about everything you don't see. Whenever possible, I'll route wiring alongside existing factory or aftermarket harnesses using small cable ties. If there isn't an existing loom to follow, I'll use adhesive cable tie mounts to stop wiring from floating around behind the dashboard where it can rub against sharp edges or moving components.
I also make sure cables won't interfere with gear selectors, transfer levers, handbrakes, heater control mechanisms or switch panels. When running cables between the engine bay and cabin, proper protection is critical. Always use an appropriate grommet or cable gland where wiring passes through metal panels. Besides protecting the cable from chafing, it also helps prevent water entering the cabin during creek crossings or heavy rain when installed correctly.
Supplying Power Safely
One area where shortcuts should never be taken is the power supply. Many people prefer their UHF to switch on and off with the vehicle's accessories, which is generally the most practical approach. It reduces the chance of accidentally leaving the radio on and flattening the starting battery.
Personally, I run mine from my auxiliary battery so when we're camping, I can leave the radio on overnight/while around the fire, so mates arriving later can still contact me without leaving the ignition switched on. Whatever method you choose, it's important to understand the circuit you're connecting into.
If you're using an existing accessory circuit, such as a cigarette lighter feed, make sure it's capable of carrying the additional load. Just as importantly, the UHF should always be protected with an appropriately sized fuse, particularly if the radio's wiring is rated lower than the circuit you're tapping into.
If you're wiring directly to a battery, install a fuse as close to the battery as practical. Vehicle fires caused by aftermarket accessories are more common than many people realise, and poor wiring practices are often a contributing factor. It's one of the reasons I always carry two fire extinguishers in my own touring vehicle.
To Crimp or to Solder?
I've seen poor solder joints and poor crimp connections, and also seen both done exceptionally well. If you're going to do either, just invest in quality tooling and quality consumables. They'll usually make a far bigger difference than the method you choose.
Should You Install a UHF Yourself?
If you're reasonably handy and willing to take your time, most people can handle installing a UHF. It might not look exactly like a workshop installation the first time, and you might make a few mistakes along the way, but that's how experience is built.
The two areas I'd pay the most attention to are the power supply and drilling into interior panels. Those are the mistakes that can become expensive or, in some cases, create genuine safety issues.
If you've read through a guide like this, watched a few installation videos and still don't feel confident, there's absolutely nothing wrong with asking a professional for advice or having them complete the installation.
Final Thoughts
Educate yourself before you pick up the tools. Read a detailed guide, watch a walkthrough video and spend time planning the installation before making the first cut or drilling the first hole. Most installation mistakes don't happen because people lack the ability to do the job. They happen because they rush into it without fully understanding the vehicle they're working on.
Take your time, think the install through, and aim for a result that's safe, functional and tidy. Your future self and possibly the next owner of your 4WD, will certainly appreciate the extra effort. As always, any questions just hit us up! We're 4wders too and happy to help. Shoot us an email at info@northadventures.com.au