We spent four nights on Moreton Island in October — two camping on the surf side, two on the quieter western coast. If you’re planning a similar trip, here’s what’s actually worth doing, what to expect, and a few things we learned the hard way.

Moreton Island, or Mulgumpin, is almost entirely made of sand. No sealed roads, and no easy shortcuts when you get bogged. If you like simple camping, ocean wildlife, and 4WD tracks that keep you honest, it’s a great spot.

Driving & Getting Unstuck

There’s no avoiding sand on Moreton. The island literally is sand, which means you’ll either get better at driving on it, or you’ll dig holes. We got bogged a few times and recovered with Maxtrax. It's just part of the experience. 

Always lower your tyre pressures before you hit soft sand, not after you’re stuck. We had our tyre pressures at 18PSI to begin with, and ended up dropping to 15PSI.  And remember, beach driving is scheduled around tides.

Track Conditions & Road Closures & Camping 

Because the whole island is sand, conditions change quickly. Some areas also close seasonally to protect wildlife, especially nesting birds. It’s worth checking Qld Parks road/track updates, current tide times for the side of the island you are on, as well as the weather before you travel. 

If something looks washed out, flooded or freshly closed, don’t push through. Talk to park rangers if you’re unsure — they’re easy to find and happy to give advice. A quick chat can save you hours of digging or worse. 

For camping, east side = windier + good sunrises + surf noise (and more sharks!). West side camping = calmer water + a stunning sunset.

Facilities are limited, so bring enough drinking water, food and rubbish bags. Some of the campsites have cold freshwater showers at them, which can be great after a day of sunscreen and salt. 

If you do need supplies, the resort shop we found to be 'off limits' unless a resort guest. We ran out of sunscreen and weren't able to get any there. You're best off visiting Castaway's, they have coffee, lunch and all your basic supply needs.

Snorkelling the Tangalooma Wrecks

The wrecks are busy for a reason! They're gorgeous, you can snorkel straight off the beach, and the amount of fish life is hard to beat without going offshore. We saw big schools of fish, and reef life growing across the metal hulls. Visibility was good, but do be aware of boat traffic on the way over to the wrecks, especially if swimming. Bring a surface marker if you’re nervous. We would recommend going early or late in the day to avoid crowds and wind chop. 

Cape Moreton Lighthouse 

Cape Moreton is the rocky headland at the northern end of the island. It’s the only place on Mulgumpin where rock breaks through the sand dunes, which is why the lighthouse was built there in the first place. During our visit, the main Cape Moreton Lighthouse was surrounded by scaffolding for restoration, so there wasn’t much to see up close.

Even without full lighthouse access, there are walking tracks and viewing platforms nearby, which is a good spot for whale watching in winter and early spring. You can see why it was chosen as a lookout, as you can see straight down the coastline. From here, we also had a good view of just how extensive the recent bushfires on Moreton had been.

A Look at Moreton’s WWII Past: Rous Battery

Moreton may be small, but played a role in coastal defence during WWII. Because Brisbane was a key Allied supply port, military installations were built along the bay’s entrance, including on island.

One interesting site to explore is the Rous Battery, hidden among coastal vegetation near the eastern tracks. What’s left now is mainly old gun placements, storage rooms and lookout structures slowly being taken back by the bush.

Honeymoon Bay & the North Point Light

On the opposite end, you’ll find the small headland with rock pools and a littler lighthouse overlooking Honeymoon Bay. This lighthouse isn’t as well-known and is much smaller than the main Cape Moreton structure, but it’s very scenic. 

Honeymoon Bay is more sheltered than the surf beaches, making it a relaxed pause. It also had plenty of shady trees to sit under, which is lovely. Fewer people visit compared to the wrecks or main lighthouse area, so we only ran into two other people over a few hours relaxing and surfing at the bay.

Champagne Pools

Up at the Northern end, below the little lighthouse are Champagne Pools. They’re smaller than the famous ones on Fraser, but they’re a nice spot to cool off if you’re already exploring the northern end. When the tide is lower, the water settles into the pools, and you get these bursts of bubbles as the waves roll over the rocks. A very pretty little spot for a dip!

Blue Lagoon & the Freshwater Lakes

One of the nicest surprises on Moreton is how good the freshwater lakes are for a quick reset. Blue Lagoon was the standout for us — clean, calm water with a slightly tea-stained colour. After days of salt, sunscreen and sand working their way into every part of your skin, slipping into freshwater is refreshing.

Eating on the Island

Check out the Gutter Bar (south end) — relaxed, and quirky. The owners actually helped out our friend travelling with us, by bringing him a much needed coil pack over from the mainland. Absolute Legends. 

Also check out Moreton Bay Oysters — get the garlic prawns. Simple and delicious at camp. 

Useful Tips 

• Bring more fresh water than you think you’ll need.

• Drop tyre pressures early. You won’t regret it.

• Snorkel on calmer tides and stay aware of boat zones.

• Most beaches are unpatrolled — swim like no one is coming to save you.

• Self-sufficiency matters: food, rubbish, tools, first aid, all of it.

• Bring a good insect repellent - March flies can be in large numbers depending on the time of year, and the weather. 

• Give all wildlife, and sea life space. They’re not there for entertainment.

• Plan driving around the tide. High tide can shut down whole sections.

Costs & Booking

When booking the ferry, do be sure to have the correct measurement for the length of your vehicle, as the ferry gets tightly packed in with cars and trucks. The prices do seem to vary by day and time travelled, and the ferry took about 90 minutes one way. There are snacks and coffee on board if needed. There is also the option to walk onto the ferry if you are not bringing a vehicle, which is significantly cheaper. The ferry lands right near Tangalooma Wrecks, so perfect for a snorkelling day trip across. 

If bringing a vehicle, you do need to book both a Vehicle pass, and each night's camping, which you can do here. If not camping, the ferry booking service can also book a vehicle pass for you, on your behalf. 

 

Overall...

Between the wrecks, the headlands, the WWII sites and the endless sand tracks, Moreton is the kind of place where you make your own trip as you go. As long as you come prepared, look after the island, and take the conditions seriously, it’s an easy place to enjoy for days. We left with plenty of sand in the car, a few good stories, and a plan to come back as soon as we can.